TNT's Men of a Certain Age just might be the riskiest new show on television. Here is a dark, complicated dramedy about male relationships on a network mostly known for comfort food police procedurals like The Closer and Law & Order: Vincent D'Onofrio Division. Not only that, but it's cocreated by and stars, of all people, Ray Romano.

Who knew Ray had such range? Or that he could hold his own opposite costars Andre Braugher (Homicide) and "Mr. Quantum Leap" himself Scott Bakula? It's also surprising that such a challenging, mature show made it on the air at all. Sure, dramas like Mad Men and Sons of Anarchy tackle the complicated animal that is the modern man. But they also do so with a healthy dollop of style, sex appeal and blistering violence. Men of a Certain Age is straight up male angst laid bare; a so-realistic-it-hurts drama that could more accurately be titled "Late Fortysomething." Thankfully, it's also sharply acted, funny and occasionally moving. (And features copious use of the "s" word. Oh, basic cable. It's so cute when you try to be HBO.) 

In the pilot, three longtime friends deal with the day-to-day stresses that arise from relationships (Romano's gambling problem has ruined his marriage), health (Braugher's Owen is an out-of-shape diabetic) and work (Owen is being muscled out of his father's car dealership by a young upstart). Meanwhile, Bakula occasionally finds himself traveling back in time and inhabiting the body of a World War II soldier or civil rights activist-- actually, he plays a washed-up actor who beds women half his age. (Can we lose this cliche for a while, TV? It's hard to feel sorry for a middle-aged sad sack when he can get a twenty-something barista out of her clothes at the drop of a hat.)

The guys spend most of their time in diners and on picaresque hikes through the LA canyons talking about their feelings and problems. Romano has said that he wants to go beyond the typical male banter about sex and sports, and there is a shocking (and somewhat refreshing) lack of the usual "guy" antics. (Though Romano's character does frequently ogle a large-breasted jogger--a gag that was better handled on ABC's stellar new sitcom Modern Family.) Indeed, this is a show about men-- complicated, flawed and, yes, often horny men. 

Will it last? I'm not so sure. Romano and Braugher are playing against type, which I loved, but I think viewers might not know what to make of this show. It calls to mind smart (and short-lived) dramas like Once and Again and Huff that also tackled messy and not easily resolved subjects like mid-life crises, familial ties and the compromises we make as we grow older. It's not escapism, but Men of a Certain Age should be catnip for fans of challenging and rewarding TV.  

And as an exploration of the male mind, it's far more incisive than Entourage. (Why are they making a movie? Hasn't that well run just a tad dry? What, will Vince finally make Aquaman 2?) 

Did you watch the first episode of Men of a Certain Age? Are you interested in Ray Romano's return to TV? Or are you still wondering who died on Sunday's Desperate Housewives? (My money's on old Mrs. McClusky.)